人為の向こう
浅瀬を波に上手に巻かれながらもどる
波へ体を飛び出すように大の字でジャンプ
腰を低く耐える
水深と波に合わせ潜る角度をか変え潜ってかわす
などなど
とにかく頭も体も感覚も心も総動員！
波の崩れるタイミングにあわせ
とにかく崩れる波へ頭から向かうしかない
足ひれで歩くのだから
安定も悪いが
出来るだけ珊瑚を踏みつぶして破壊しないように
足もとを見ながらあるくのだが
様々なウニ
珊瑚の鋭利な岩など
とにかく
危険だらけ
行きも帰りも
完全なるアウェー
敵陣ではなく
足を水につけた時から
人為の及ばない世界が生きていると知る
While shallows are rolled round a wave well, I come back
It is jumped by lying with a customer without being sexually excited to a wave to jump out of a body
I endure a waist low
I change angle sinking to the depth of the water and a wave and go and exchange it
etc
Anyway, the head mobilizes all the body and the sense and the hearts, too!
Put it together in the timing when the wave collapses
Anyway, I cannot but go to the wave to collapse from a head
Because I walk with a flipper
The stability is bad, too
You tread coral as much as possible, and do not destroy it
I walk while looking at the step
Various sea urchins
Sharp rocks of the coral
Anyway
It is full of danger
As for the going as for the return
Away named the perfection
Not the opponent’s side
Since I soaked a foot in water
I know that the world beyond the act of man is valid
