Trees
昔フィジーの空港で逢い、偶然にも向かう島も一緒だったハワイアン達。
そんな心優しい彼らの誘いで、毎年の様に太平洋の小島で待ち合わせる事になった。
唯一の待ち合わせ場所の条件は、波のある島なのだ。
この時はそんな彼らの誘いで、ハワイの家へ泊めてもらい、数日後南下すること５時間。
１泊しさらに乗り継いで１時間、車で３時間。伝統的な暮らしを保つ懐かしの国サモアについた。海をのぞむ砂州と河の横の小さな木の宿に泊まり、同じテーブルで世界から吸い寄せられる様に訪れたサーファー達と暮らした。
時には数日、数週間とすれ違いの中、波を求めて彼らは様々な国からやってくる。
夜には、世界中の波の情報交換の話をはじめ、「ロールする波にもっていから危なかった」
「鮫とイルカを間違えた」など笑い声の中、
皆輝く眼差しに未知の波と喜びを写す彼らは自分自身でもあるのだ。
消え行く太陽と、あるべき場所にある椰子の木々。
虫やかえるの鳴き声、水面をたまにはねる魚の音など、の地球の音に包まれると、街で人間が作った物の音や、看板などの電気の色が、いかに異物なのかを改めて知る。
もちろん人間とて自然の生き物にとってはやっかいものなのだが。
自然とて不自然な言葉なのだが、
人はそのなかに身を置く事で大切な物語を憶いだしているのだろう。
It encounters in the airport in Fiji in 10 years ago, and Hawaiians with whom the island faced by chance was the same.
Such mind excel invite every year small islands of Pacific Ocean meet.
The condition of the only meeting place is an island with the wave.
Take in in the house in Hawaii by their such invitations, and this time for five hours that go south in several days.
At three hours in the car of one hour one night stay change in addition.
It attached to country [samoa] of the bosom oak that kept a traditional living. It lived with surfers who had visited so that it stayed at the hotel of a small tree on the side of the sand bar and the river where the sea was faced, and it was attracted from the world with the same table.
They come from various countries for the inside and the wave of several weeks of several days at times and passing each other.
Night
all over the world wave information exchange story
including roll wave have dangerous
shark dolphin make a mistake laughter
inside all shine eye difference unknown wave please opy own.
The sun that disappears and goes and having trees of palm in place.
It knows how the sound of the thing that man made in the town and the color of the electricity such as signboards are foreign bodies when wrapped in the sound in the earth of the sound etc. of the fish that occasionally hits insect and frog’s cry and surface of the waters again.
Though man is the troublesome one of course for the living thing of nature.
Though nature is an unnatural word
The person might begin to think of an important story in putting the body on the average.
Thanks so much , Surf Junkys.
